.

Cartier

Must De Cartier Tank Tiger's Eye" Brown Dial

Title:  

Cartier

590005

Accepted Payments

Details & Specifications

Description

The Must de Cartier Tank is one of the most culturally significant watches of the 20th century — a piece that democratised Cartier's iconic rectangular case by housing it in vermeil (gold-plated sterling silver) rather than solid gold, making the Tank accessible to a far wider audience without compromising a single millimetre of its aesthetic authority.

 This particular example is something considerably rarer than a standard Must de Cartier Tank: it is fitted with the extraordinary "wood grain" brown dial — a swirling, deeply figured tobacco-brown lacquer surface that catches the light with an almost three-dimensional depth, producing a visual effect that is simultaneously bold and organic. Dial variants of this quality are among the most sought-after configurations in the entire Must de Cartier canon, and examples in strong original condition command significant collector premiums.

 The gold-plated sterling silver case retains its characteristic warm yellow tone, with the clean, unadorned Tank lines — wide horizontal bands, vertical sides, and gently curved crystal — presenting as timelessly as they did when the Must de Cartier line was conceived by Cartier's president Robert Hocq in 1973. The "must de Cartier" signature sits at 12 o'clock in Cartier's elegant script, with the double "C" Cartier logo positioned at 6 o'clock in matching gold tone.

A fluted crown set with a blue synthetic spinel cabochon — one of the most enduring signatures in watch design — completes the case. Paired with a brown lizard-skin strap with a gold-tone pin buckle, this is a watch of genuine character and considerable rarity in this dial configuration.

Specifications:

Movement
Type Mechanical Manual Wind
Calibre Cartier / ETA 7001 (Swiss lever escapement)
Functions Hours and Minutes
Case
Case Material Vermeil — Gold-Plated Sterling Silver (925/1000)
Case Shape Rectangular — Tank LM (Large Model)
Crown Fluted crown set with blue synthetic spinel cabochon
Crystal Acrylic / Plexiglass — gently curved
Dial "Wood grain" / tiger's eye brown lacquer dial — deeply figured swirling tobacco tone; gold-tone "must de Cartier" signature at 12 o'clock; double "C" Cartier logo at 6 o'clock; gold-plated sword-shaped hands
Strap
Strap Material Brown lizard-skin leather
Clasp Pin buckle
Clasp Material Gold-tone
Additional Details
Collection Must de Cartier Tank — Large Model
Era ca. 1973–1983
Origin Swiss Made

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